Trekking Across California's High Sierra Range
How and When to Hike in California's Highest Mountain Range
Aug 8, 2009
California's High Sierra has some of the biggest mountains, deepest gorges, grandest wilderness, and most remote terrain in the contiguous United States. John Muir called it the "Range of Light." Ansel Adams captured it on film in iconic photographs. And backpackers, llama packers, and horseback riders can all be found exploring these spectacular mountains in the months the range is passable, usually June through September.
The High Sierra includes Mt. Whitney (which at 14,494 feet is the highest peak in the contiguous United States), as well as Kings Canyon, Sequoia, and Yosemite National Parks, the Ansel Adams Wilderness, and the John Muir Wilderness. The range is criss-crossed by hiking and pack trails as well as some un-marked cross-country trekking routes, including the John Muir Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, the High Sierra Trail, and the Sierra High Route (an unmarked high-country adventure route, suitable for experienced hikers but not for stock). Whichever path they choose, backpackers, horseback riders, and llama trekkers can vanish into the wilderness and not see a road, a power line, or a cell tower for two weeks or more.
Geography and Terrain of the High Sierra
The High Sierra is the high heart of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, which runs south-to-north through much of the length of central and northern California. Starting from the western side of the High Sierra, the range gently tilts upward, reaching its highest points at the very eastern edge. On the eastern side, the mountains rise to elevations of 13,000 and 14,000 feet before plummeting precipitously into the dry lowlands of central California.
The trails on the western side of the range include the High Sierra Trail, which starts in the Giant Grove in Sequoia National Park, and crosses the range in an east-west direction. The High Sierra's two most popular trails -- the John Muir Trail (J.M.T.) and the Pacific Crest Trail (P.C.T.) -- are often contiguous and run north-south, on the high and dry eastern side of the range; they split near Yosemite's Tuolumne meadows, where the John Muir trail heads west for Yosemite Valley.
The north-south orientation makes for challenging trekking, because the range is sliced east-west by rivers; thus hikers and stock packers must climb and descend and climb and descend, often 4,000 feet at a time, to hike into one river valley, then up over the next pass.
Seasonal Issues in the High Sierra: High Passes, Stream Crossings, Bears
Seasonal challenges for hikers and stock-packers depend on month and elevation. Early season is dangerous because of snow and river crossings (which are fed by snowmelt and can make even a normally small creek dangerous to cross). So even in the lower country, where trails may be clear of snow by May or June, the rivers will run high and fast.
The J.M.T. and the P.C.T rise to elevations of 13,180 feet at Forester Pass (and above 11,000 feet at half a dozen other high passes). These passes may be snow-clogged well into July, although thru-hikers on the P.C.T. often tackle them in mid June, or earlier, in a light snow year.
Mosquitoes can be bad, especially in June and throughout July, and especially in Yosemite. so bring plenty of DEET and use a tent rather than a tarp.
Another issue in the High Sierra is black bears, which can be persistent and aggressive about appropriating hikers' food supplies, usually by trying to steal food at night. In the high country (above 10,000 feet), black bears are less of a problem in the early season. In July and August, bears are ubiquitous everywhere, especially when camping in Yosemite National Park near Tuolumne Meadows. In the lower camping areas closer to major roads and entry points, tourist season equals bear season: If campers are there, so are bears. Always carry an approved bear-proof container for all food, and use any food storage lockers available at campsites,
Seasonal Summary of Hiking in the High Sierra
- Hiking the High Sierra in June: Experts only. Seasonal challenges include Ice and snow covered passes, swollen streams; safe travel requires ice axes and crampons. On the positive side: Not too many mosquitoes, no crowds, and fewer bears at higher elevations.
- Hiking the High Sierra in July: Seasonal challenges include possible lingering snow, some difficult stream crossings, mosquitoes, bears, and crowds. On the positive side: Best weather and temperatures for hiking.
- Hiking the High Sierra in August: Seasonal challenges include crowds and bears. On the positive side: A lot less snow in the high country, easier stream crossings, fewer mosquitoes, generally pleasant weather and temperatures.
- Hiking the High Sierra in September: Seasonal challenges: Possibility of new snow. Need to carry extra clothes for very cold nights. On the positive side: No crowds, no mosquitoes, and no swollen streams.
No matter which season a hiker chooses, the High Sierra rewards the effort with an incredible wilderness experience, filled with eye-popping views of some of the most spectacular and remote scenery to be found anywhere in the world.
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