Climbing Mt. Kenya

Africa's Second-Highest Peak Offers First-Rate Challenge

© Karen Berger

May 27, 2009
Mintos Tarn on Mt. Kenya Chogoria Route, Karen Berger
Mt. Kenya boasts some of the finest mountain scenery in the world, including three summits, dramatic geologic formations, wildlife, and fantastical Afro-alpine plants.

Mt. Kenya suffers from “little sibling” syndrome: In Africa, it’s Kilimanjaro that gets all the attention. After all, as the highest peak in Africa, Kilimanjaro automatically confers the biggest bragging rights. As a practical matter, Kilimanjaro is not that difficult to climb: You can walk to the top, aided by an army of porters.

Mt. Kenya Versus Kilimanjaro

Mt. Kenya, on the other hand, is only the continent’s second highest peak, which in a world of superlatives, relegates it to also-ran status – except among mountaineers who have the inside scoop. In reality, Mt. Kenya is a much tougher climb, and its scenery is unparalleled.

To reach Mt. Kenya’s summit requires ropes and harnesses and some serious climbing chops. Only a small minority of those who trek to the peak every year actually attempt to climb either of the mountain's “twin” peaks, named Batian (17,053 feet) and Nelion (17,017 feet). Point Lenana, (16,350 feet), is the more usual goal for trekkers – although it, too, requires a bit of a scramble at the top.

A few other differences: Mt. Kenya is significantly cheaper. Porters and guides are not required. And far fewer people climb it each year.

Natural Features on Mt. Kenya

In the scenery department, Mt. Kenya is the clear winner. Like Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya was created by volcanic forces, but on Mt. Kenya, the forces of erosion have acted more dramatically, leaving not only the three pinnacles on the summit jutting to the sky, but also countless other cliffs, gorges, hanging valleys, glaciers, ridges, moraines, and waterfalls. Mt. Kenya boasts, quite simply, some of the most spectacular scenery to be found anywhere in the world, particularly on the Chogoria Route.

Mt. Kenya’s natural features are no less varied than its geological scenery. Most dramatic are the almost fantasy-land forests of giant groundsel and lobelia. which look like something Dr. Seuss might have imagined: 10-foot tall asparagus-like stalks capped by tops that look like an artichoke the size of a Volkswagen.

Lower down the mountain’s slopes are moors covered with giant heather, and bamboo forests where you might see monkeys, giant forest hogs, or (rarely) elephants. Other wildlife include Cape buffalo, zebra, rhinos, duikers, antelope, and hyraxes (a small rodent-like animal that looks like a marmot, but is said to be related to elephants). Not to mention the (very) occasional lion.

Practicalities for Climbing Mt. Kenya

  • Getting there: Mount Kenya is located a three-and-a-half-hour drive north of Nairobi, but if you take public transportation (bus or mini-vans called “matatus”) it can take much longer. Start the trip early.
  • Fees: Mt. Kenya is a national park, and charges an impossible-to-decode combination of entry and camping fees. Figure about $15 – $20 a day.
  • Guides and porters are available at lodges near both the main entrances, at the Chogoria Transit Motel on the east side or at the Naro Moru River Lodge on the west.
  • Warnings: Acute Mountain Sickness is a serious problem. Climb slowly, and don’t ignore symptoms. Getting lost in the fog and storms (Yes, it snows) is also a possibility; inexperienced hikers should consider hiring a guide.
  • Gear can be rented at the Naro Moru River Lodge at the mountain’s western base. You need a full complement of packs, sleeping bags, tents, stoves, and boots. .
  • Guidebooks and maps. Recommended: Trekking in East Africa; The Kenya Mountain Club's Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro (available locally in Nairobi bookstores, as are detailed maps).; and Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya: A Climbing and Trekking Guide (Mountaineers, available through Amazon.)

A final note: Why not enjoy the best of both worlds? A climb of Mt. Kenya offers excellent acclimatization for the higher elevations of Kilimanjaro.

ResourcesFor more information on climbing Mt. Kenya, including routes and gear, see: Resources for Travel in East Africa.


The copyright of the article Climbing Mt. Kenya in Alpine Adventure Travel is owned by Karen Berger. Permission to republish Climbing Mt. Kenya in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Mintos Tarn on Mt. Kenya Chogoria Route, Karen Berger
Gorges Valley on Mt. Kenya, Karen Berger
     


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